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BROW SHAPING - EyebrowLab Academy


Welcome to Level 3

It is important to build your muscle memory and other technical skills to where they need to be on paper before moving to latex with your
machine. These are two very separate skills of equal importance and both must be mastered. It is a must to focus on one skill at a time to
master proper execution of machine hairstroke methods.
Some of the aspects of Feather Brows cannot be easily replicated on paper. An example of this is the look of pixelated hairstrokes. You can
still keep the softness and light weight characteristics when drawing detailed/airy strokes on paper, but the skeleton strokes should be
slightly thicker.


Basic brow structure

Every natural and unnatural brow has a few basic structural components to them


Note: Aside from using a Golden Ratio Compass, this is another way to measure out the brow’s basic points. Not every brow fits to these
points, always look at the client’s natural brow shape.

 1. Head of the brow 2. Body of the brow 3, Tail of the brow

The Golden Ratio

The Golden Ratio is a mathematical repeating pattern that appears beautiful to the human eye, and is found across the universe, from mathematics, the human body, architecture and even the stars.


What does the Golden Ratio have to do with permanent makeup and eyebrows?

Faces express many examples of the Golden Ratio. For example, the width of the mouth compared to the width of the nose represents the
Golden Ratio (1.618). If a person has a wider nose, they would also have wider lips that continue to maintain that same ratio of 1.618. And so
this ratio applies to the eyebrows as well. When we are measuring the brows using the Golden Ratio, the distance from the innermost part of
the eyes where the white begins, known as the sclera, indicates the perfect distance between the eyebrows.
The Golden Ratio Compass is a tool that will give you this ratio when you are measuring the eyebrows. This will allow you to make the
eyebrow shape with balance and symmetry. When using the Golden Ratio Compass, your brow shape will always reflect the perfect
proportions of the Golden Ratio and as a result will be appealing to the eye every time. Even despite using the same tool for each client, each
brow will be unique as it is based on their individual features and therefore is still customized to them as an individual.

The Golden Ratio Compass

3.2 – The Feather Brows Structure

One way that Feather Brows differ from other styles is how the brow is structured. The first step, and the foundation of the brow, is the
skeleton. This will give you the basic shape of your brow and all other hair strokes that are built around this skeleton. The main structure hair
strokes of the skeleton are followed by secondary, tertiary, and detailed hairstrokes. Your client’s natural brow and skin type will dictate how
many detail strokes you use, if any.


The spine is what will dictate the pattern you use and is the first thing to look for on a client’s natural brow. This is where your client’s natural
hair can be divided into upper and lower areas. This is a very important part of the brow design and is where your client’s natural hair meets
and changes direction.
Sometimes your client may not have a specific area in the brow where the hair meets together, you will have to choose the closest fitting
pattern in these situations. You will always choose where to place your spine based upon where your client’s natural brow hair lies. If your
client has no brow hair, you get to be creative, of course taking into consideration your client’s desires and preferences. Remember, no two
sets of brows will ever be the exact same because no two clients are the same.

The line represents the location of where the spine is on this brow. This brow is suitable for the fluffy pattern.

What is the spine exactly?

• It separates upper from lower hair strokes
• The spine is a part of the skeleton itself
• Usually where the clients hair meets together
• It is the main line of the brow and anchors the
rest of the hair strokes

The Skeleton

The skeleton must be created carefully! It is the guiding shape for the direction of all hair strokes that will be added after it.
The spine is an important part of the skeleton. It is a line that separates the direction of hair growth. By examining your client’s natural brow
and where in the brow the hair changes direction, you will determine which pattern style to choose

The Basics of the skeleton

It is the first step in creating your brow pattern
• It contains the thickest hair strokes
• It contains the longest hair strokes
• It contains the spine, which separates
the direction of hair flow
• The skeleton can be darker in color and
is made up of thicker hair strokes

Secondary hair strokes

Secondary hair strokes stem from the skeleton. They must be evenly spaced and go in the same direction.
Basics of secondary strokes
• It is the second step in creating your brow pattern
• Helps to build density in the brow
• Can be made of slightly thicker hair

Basics of secondary strokes

• It is the second step in creating your brow pattern
•Helps to build density in the brow
• Can be made of slightly thicker hair

Tertiary hair strokes

Tertiary hair strokes are considered density hair strokes. Once the structural strokes are complete, the skeleton and secondary strokes, the
density strokes follow.

Basics of tertiary hair strokes

It is the third step in creating your brow pattern
• Adds even more density to the brow
• Shorter in length
• Some clients may require a minimal
number of tertiary stokes, or in some cases, none at all

Detail (airy) strokes

Detail hair strokes are not a requirement in your brow pattern. They are used to add additional density and detail to the brow. Use them
sparingly and if needed. When detail strokes are used, use pixelation with space between the pixels for an airy effect. They can also be done
with the main body (center) of the hair stroke being crisp, but the end should always be soft and pixelated.

Basics of detail (airy) hair strokes

• The final step in creating your brow pattern
• Optional hair strokes
•The thinnest hair strokes
• Add even more density to the brow
Shortest in length
• Great for clients with naturally dense brows
•For clients with dense brow hair
• Use in areas where there is little to no hair to create density
• Not required where there is already much natural brow hair, use in more sparse areas


3.3- Feather Brows Patterns

Each Pattern has a basic structure but is customized to each client. Once you master the basics of each pattern you will be able to put your
own creative spin on the brows ou create as well.

Mid Connection

Many people of European descent will fall under this category. The location of the spine is about midway through the brow.

Natural eyebrow that is ideal for mid-connection pattern

Natural brows ideal for mid-connection or Fluffy pattern

Downward connection

Many people of Asian and Hispanic descent will fall under this pattern. The location of the spine is lower in the brow and most of the
hairstrokes flow downward.

Natural brow downward connection


This is technically an upper spine style but with room for creativity. The spine is located at the top near the upper arch, most of the
hairstrokes flow upward. This is the style with the maximum amount of fluff.

Naturally dense eyebrow ideal for fluffy pattern

Natural eyebrows that would be ideal for fluffy pattern or upward flow

 brow is a spineless take on Feather Brows. It is the ultimate fluffy, laminated look.
What makes it unique is that there is no spine or point at which they merge together at any given line. Instead, all the hair strokes flow
upward. This gives a super fluffy result that is super popular. Communicate with your client the potential upkeep of this look and that it may
not perfectly flow with their natural brow hair.

Who is this pattern for?
• Those who wants an ultra fluffy, chic look
• Those that laminate their eyebrows
• Client’s that have a European style hair
flow to their brow
• Clients that would work well for the mid
connection and fluffy pattern are the best candidates for upward flow.

Close up of upward flow pattern

 Once you have mastered each of the Feather Brows’ styles, you can add your own artistic flare to them. This is the beauty of Feather Brows!
There is room to create art by way of cosmetic tattooing.

3.4 – The Steps of Creating Feather Brows

1. Create a brow shape using the Golden Ratio Compass
2. Choose which of the patterns you will be using
3. Decide where the spine will be placed. Create your skeleton
4. Add on secondary strokes, both upper and lower
5. Add on tertiary strokes, both upper and lower
6. Add on detail strokes as desired/ if necessary (in the real world, this will vary based on the
desires of your client and how much brow hair they have naturally)
The steps are the same for all patterns except for upward flow. There is no spine for this pattern.

Fluffy Pattern

Downward Pattern

Mid Connection

to creating Feather Brows

Step 1 – Create your brow shape:
Your first step will be to use the Golden Ratio Compass to create a proper brow shape as a guide.
Step 2 – Choosing your pattern type:
The main thing that sets each of the patterns apart is the location of the spine, or if there isn’t a natural spine. Please note which style of brow you have chosen.
Step 3 – The spine:
Mark the end points and then draw the spine. Remember, the spine should not be a perfectly straight line but have a gentle curve to it. Skip
this step for upward flow.
Step 4 – Create the skeleton:
Create your skeleton off of the spine. These are the main structure hair strokes, they are often slightly more saturated in color. You can show
this by using slightly thicker lines with pencil. The skeleton is what anchors the entire brow, an accurate skeleton is necessary.
The spine is a part of the skeleton and is the baseline to which upper and lower lines come off of, like branches from a tree. It is important to
have flow to the design, there should never be 90 degree angles.
Step 5: Secondary hair strokes
Draw the secondary connecting strokes, both upper and lower.
Step 6: Tertiary hair strokes:
Draw the tertiary connecting strokes, both upper and lower.
Step 7: Detail hair strokes:
Draw the detail strokes, both upper and lower.
Remember, these steps will vary slightly based upon which pattern you are working on.