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HAIR STROKES, CONNECTIONS, ADJUSTMENTS AND PASSES - EyebrowLab Academy

HAIR STROKES, CONNECTIONS, ADJUSTMENTS AND PASSES

https://youtu.be/dBZZjXfTrKY

4.1 – Hair stroke connections and bundles
Hair stroke connections are an integral part of the Feather Brows method. One of the best things about working with a machine is the flexibility to connect and cross lines to form hair stroke connections and bundles. It is, however, important that these intersectional areas are executed properly to prevent damage to the skin. These areas where hairs trokes cross are at greater risk of migration, pigment spreading, and turning ashy once healed.

https://youtu.be/80If2Qn-sNQhttps://youtu.be/WZldanTJJsU

Connection Principles
Correct ways to connect hair strokes.

Incorrect Connections
1. Angle is too big at connection. Migration would occur at connection point
2. Does not flow. Harsh angle
3. No flow, incorrect way to execute a hair stroke bundle. Harsh angle
4. Crowded bundle. Hair strokes are all originating from the same connection which should not occur. Hair strokes are thickened in the wrong area for hair strokes in a bundle/ connection


https://youtu.be/ULay4udx9WM

There should never be harsh angles, everything must always flow. This is the important. Secondary hair strokes stem and flow from the skeleton, tertiary strokes stem from secondary strokes, and detail strokes can stem from either, but oftentimes from tertiary strokes. Clusters are often formed but it is important for these clusters to not be too distinct but still flow together.
Too many secondary and tertiary strokes should not stem from the same location. This will begin to look unnatural. It is important to pay attention to each hair stroke’s origin point, the place from which the hair stroke stems from.

https://youtu.be/zPnUr15-6rc

How to connect hair strokes
Connections of two hair strokes form a V or Y type shape. It is important that each hair stroke flows into one another smoothly, without harsh and abrupt angles.
•The connecting hair strokes should not be of the same length. One is always longer than the other, coming together to form one continuous line.
• Hair strokes should not connect at angles that look like an X or a T. There is an exception to this for X type head strokes, although connection rules still apply when darkening hairstrokes.
• When crossing hair strokes, you can cross directly on a first pass but the following passes should
be done in soft, etching motions to “fill” and darken the hair strokes. This should be done on either side of the connection.
• Excessive trauma and migration can result at the connection of two hair strokes, be careful in
this area.

Examples of crossed hair strokes
1. Correct way to cross: angle is small where hair strokes cross. Hair strokes are of differing lengths
2. Correct way to cross: angle is small where hair strokes cross. Hair strokes are of differing lengths.
3. Incorrect way to cross: Wide angle at the connection point. Creates a harsh outcome.

Bundles
Bundles are connections of multiple hair strokes. There are always two primary hair strokes that connect together. Smaller hair strokes stem from these main hair stokes.
• The main hair stokes are almost always part of the skeleton and secondary hair strokes.
•The smaller hair strokes that form bunches are tertiary and detailed hair strokes.
• Bundles should not become too crowded. The more hair strokes that are in each bundle, the
more dense that area will look. Always think of your healed result when choosing the number of hair strokes to add. Too many hair strokes will
result in a blobby and blurred healed result, especially on skin that can’t handle a high number of hair strokes in one area (oily, very oily, thick).
• Smaller hair strokes that form bundles should be finer and never the exact same length. This will make it look quite unnatural.

Correct Bundles
1. Smooth connection points, hair strokes of varied lengths 2. Smooth connection point, staggered hair stroke lengths.
3. Smooth connection points. Hair strokes do not all originate from the same spot. Hair strokes vary in weight/thickness

Incorrect Bundles
1. Connection point is too busy, harsh/incorrect angles, length of hair strokes is too similar, not enough taper to hair strokes, all hair strokes are of same weight.
2. Connection point is too busy, harsh/incorrect angles, not enough taper to hair strokes, all hair strokes are of same weight

Correct and Incorrect Bundles
2. Hair strokes should not be all of the equal length. Too many hair strokes originate from the same connection point.
3. Too busy. All hair strokes should not come from the same connection point as they do here.
9. Although more aesthetically appealing, this bundle is too busy.

Identifying bundles in natural brows

4.2 – Subsequent Passes and hair strokes adjustments

Where to thicken hair strokes
The thickening of hair strokes should happen on certain areas of the brow and not for every hair stroke. Usually, you will be thickening hair strokes that are made up of the skeleton and secondary strokes. You will also want to create thicker hair strokes, in general, for clients with coarse brow hair or want hair strokes that are very visible and stand out. If you look at a natural brow, you will see that it is most dense and dark in the center of the brow. This is the area you want to thicken your hair strokes most and/or add selective shading. The goal of Feather Brows is to mimic full and fluffy natural brows, so always keep in mind what a natural full brow looks like when creating. The thickest hair strokes will be in the body of the brow.

Hair stroke progression after multiple passes

 First pass
2. Second pass
3. Third, perfecting pass

Areas you should use caution thickening hair strokes in
•The end of the tail
• The thinnest skin on the brow bone
•The very front hair strokes of the brow
(hairs are naturally more space and thin here)

Areas you want to avoid adding shading
•To the edges, or border, of the brow in any area, this will result in a very unnatural result
• To the very front edge of the brow
• Any area that looks unnatural when too dark and dense
• Never apply shading in a solid uniform manner that covers the entire brow
• Shading should always be done selectively and in sections to avoid adding unnecessary trauma to the areas with hair strokes

Mid connection with selective shading

Executing hair stroke thickening
• It is easier to widen a pixelated hair stroke than a crisp one. To widen, either add to either the left or right (or both) sides of the hair stroke.
• Stay as close as possible to your original hair stroke.
•Fill any gaps with soft etching motions.
• Make sure that the hair stroke is consistent in saturation, with ends that
are tapered and soft.

https://youtu.be/FFhyVt1th6Ihttps://youtu.be/rgYQBTVwghA

How to execute additional passes over a hair stroke
• Additional passes are used to darken (add saturation to) a hair stroke. This can be done by doing multiple passes over the hair stroke until the desired saturation is achieved.
• Never begin your additional passes at the very ends of the hair stroke. Always begin in either the middle, working outwards from there, or slightly away from either end. This will help to avoid thickening the tapers of the hair stroke. This is very important!
• Too many passes over the same hair stroke can cause excess trauma to the skin, it can cause you to go too deep if not careful.
•It is best to achieve optimal saturation of each hair stroke with as few passes as possible. This will give a better healed result. Less trauma = better healed results.

How to fix small depth inconsistencies in a hair stroke
• Enter the hair stroke just before the area needs to be filled/adjusted, carefully adding pigment to this area.
• Always use the principle of going in and out of the skin, even in situations such as this.
• Once each area is corrected by adding pigment, do a final pass over the hair stroke. Be very careful to not add excessive pressure and create migration when fixing hair strokes in this way.

For crisp hair stroke adjustments
• Enter into the hair stroke (using the same principles of going in and out) just before where it is too light. Implant pigment into this area only and go in and out of the skin. You may need to do this in multiple parts of a single hair stroke.
•Once the hair stroke looks more evenly saturated, do a single pass over the entire hair stroke, making sure not to enter or exit the stroke
abruptly. Always enter and exit the skin gradually to create the look of a taper and avoid harsh edges in work.
For pixelated hair stroke adjustments
• Begin working on each individual hair stroke where there are areas that are lighter. Be sure to blend any harsh edges.
• Always do an additional pass over the hair stroke after any adjustments.