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NANOBROWSMETHOD - EyebrowLab Academy


What is Feather Brows?
Feather Brows is a form of micropigmentation executed by machine. More specifically, it is a machine hairstroke technique and falls under the umbrella of “Nano Brows,” a widely used generic term for machine hairstroke style brows.
The Feather Brows method takes a “less is more” approach to brows. Negative space is imperative and only adds to the beauty of this style of brows. Every single hair stroke must flow together seamlessly. Realism is the end goal.

The location of the spine is lower in the brow and most of the hairstrokes flow downward.

Feather Brows can be pared down to a smaller version to suit the needs of client’s with more petite sized brows, or if they desire a more conservative look. This approach is referred to as Baby Feather Brows. The main structure remains the same. The only change is the length of each hairstroke.

Feather Brows Structure

There are three main Feather Brows patterns. Each person’s brow type will fall under one of the three main patterns, adjusted as needed. The upward flow is an additional ultra fluffy pattern with a look similar to a laminated brow.
Feather Brows are created off of a skeleton, which is the main structure of the brow. All other hairstrokes stem from this skeleton or f rom secondary hairstrokes, which originate from the skeleton. Each secondary stroke has a connecting tertiary stroke, and sometimes even detail strokes.

Feather Brow Pattern

Each Pattern has a basic structure but is customized to each client. Once you master the basics of each pattern you will be able to put your own creative spin on the brows you create as well.

Mid Connection

The location of the spine is about midway through the brow.

Downward Connection

The location of the spine is lower in the brow and most of the hairstrokes flow downward.

Feather Brow Tools

Feather Brows are created using a micropigmentation device, and a fine single needle (or other small needle grouping), to replicate each hairstroke. Each hairstroke consists of connective dots, the most densely saturated part is the center, fading out at the ends into soft pixels. Individual hair strokes should not stop abruptly but have fluidity and flow. These dots are the pigment implanted by the machine under the surface of the skin. All tattooing by machine, whether cosmetic or traditional body art, is created by means of these “connective dots”. The more closely packed and densely saturated these pixels of pigment are, the more solid the area becomes.

Micropigmentation Device

Choose a machine that is solid but lightweight and with minimal vibration. The more vibration, the more difficult it is to create hairstrokes by machine. Back end weight (battery packs) also can make it more difficult to work.

Needle Cartridge

Feather Brows require specific needle cartridges. Either a 1RL cartridge, 3RL or 3RS. The 1RL will be used most often. The preferred diameter is between .25mm – .35mm. You may use a needle diameter as small as .20mm in cases where the client’s skin is very thin, mature, and fragile.

How is the Feather Brows technique different from the manual method of microblading?

1. How pigment is implanted into the skin and the tools used to do this: With Feather Brows, a machine implants the pigment into the skin. In microblading, pigment is implanted manually using a handheld tool with a blade attached to the end. This blade is made up of very fine needles that are arranged in a row and each hairstroke is created by making a superficial cut into the skin to which pigment is deposited into.

2. Performed slightly more shallowly in the skin: Although you will still be working in the papillary dermis at the dermal epidermal junction, Feather Brows are ever so slightly more superficial in the skin (similar to powder brows). This means that as a general rule, you do not need as much warmth in your pigment mix when compared to microblading and there is little to no blood present during the procedure. This is not to say that pigments do not need to be warmed up, there are situations that they absolutely do.

3. Artistry and less technical restriction: Working with a micropigmentation device opens the doorway for artistic freedom due to less technical restriction. With Feather Brows your hair strokes can cross, and if done correctly this lends to the realism of this style.

4. Pigment consistency: Thinner pigments are necessary, whereas slightly thicker, creamier pigments are often preferred by many artists in microblading. Most microblading pigments can be mixed with a pigment thinner when necessary.

5. Hairstroke visuals: Each Feather Brows hair stroke is made up of a pixilation of pigment creating an ombré effect. Lighter and airier at the ends, denser and darker in the body, each hairstroke creates an ombre effect within itself.

6. A wider variety of skin types and conditions are suitable for Feather Brows: Oily skin fares better with machine hairstroke techniques than they do with microblading. You can also perform this method on skin that is mature or thin. Very oily skin, as well as textured, may still be better suited with a powder technique.

7. Less invasive: No cutting of the skin and minimal to no bleeding. Bleeding during the procedure pushes the pigment out and can make it difficult to work. This can affect your healed work by creating spotty results where pigment did not implant as well. Bleeding can also create excessive cooling of the pigment when it heals. You will see less lymph fluid during the procedure. You may, however, see more lymph fluid in oilier skin types or if you overwork this skin.

The differences between traditional tattooing and Feather Brows

You may find that some clients assume this method is the same as traditional tattooing because a machine is used. Despite this fact, there are more differences than similarities.

Key Difference

1. The pigments/inks used: Cosmetic inks are formulated with the facial skin in mind. Cosmetic pigments are oftentimes more finely milled than their body ink counterparts and as a result better implant into delicate facial skin.

2. The needles used: Generally, smaller needle configurations are used.

3. The layer of skin worked in: With Feather Brows, pigment is implanted more superficially
into the Papillary Dermis (upper dermis). Body tattooing is performed deeper in the dermis.